<h2>CHAPTER X</h2>
<div class='chaptertitle'>IN THE GOLD COUNTRY</div>
<p><span class="smcap">A low</span>, sandy beach, without a tree to break
its level, rows of plain frame-houses, some tents
and wooden shanties scattered about, the surf
breaking over the shore in splendid foam,—this
was Teddy's first impression of Nome.
They had sailed over from St. Michael's to
see the great gold-fields, and both the boys were
full of eagerness to be on land. It seemed,
however, as if their desires were not to be realized,
for landing at Nome is a difficult matter.</p>
<p>Nome is on the south shore of that part of
Alaska known as Seward Peninsula, and it has
no harbour. It is on the open seacoast and
catches all the fierce storms that sweep northward
over Bering Sea. Generally seacoast<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_109" id="Page_109">[109]</SPAN></span>
towns are built in certain spots because there
is a harbour, but Nome was not really built,
it "jes' growed," for, when gold was found
there, the miners sat down to gather the harvest,
caring nothing about a harbour.</p>
<p>Ships cannot go within a mile of land, and
passengers have to go ashore in small lighters.
Sometimes when they arrive, they cannot go
ashore at all, but have to wait several days,
taking refuge behind a small island ten miles
away, lest they drag their anchors and be dashed
to pieces on the shore.</p>
<p>There had been a tremendous storm at Nome
the day before Ted arrived, and landing was
more difficult than usual, but, impatient as the
boys were, at last it seemed safe to venture, and
the party left the steamer to be put on a rough
barge, flat-bottomed and stout, which was
hauled by cable to shore until it grounded on
the sands. They were then put in a sort of
wooden cage, let down by chains from a huge<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_110" id="Page_110">[110]</SPAN></span>
wooden beam, and swung round in the air like
the unloading cranes of a great city, over the
surf to a high platform on the land.</p>
<p>"Well, this is a new way to land," cried Ted,
who had been rather quiet during the performance,
and his father thought a trifle frightened.
"It's a sort of a balloon ascension, isn't
it?"</p>
<p>"It must be rather hard for the miners, who
have been waiting weeks for their mail, when
the boat can't land her bags at all," said Mr.
Strong. "That sometimes happens. From November
to May, Nome is cut off from the world
by snow and ice. The only news they receive
is by the monthly mail when it comes.</p>
<p>"Over at Kronstadt the Russians have ice-breaking
boats which keep the Baltic clear
enough of ice for navigation, and plow their
way through ice fourteen feet thick for two
hundred miles. The Nome miners are very<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_111" id="Page_111">[111]</SPAN></span>
anxious for the government to try this ice-boat
service at Nome."</p>
<p>"Why did people settle here in such a forlorn
place?" asked Ted, as they made their way
to the town, which they found anything but
civilized. "I like the Indian houses on the
island better than this."</p>
<p>"Your island is more picturesque," said Mr.
Strong, "but people came here for what they
could get.</p>
<p>"In 1898 gold was discovered on Anvil
Creek, which runs into Snake River, and this
turned people's eyes in the direction of Nome.
Miners rushed here and set to work in the
gulches inland, but it was not till the summer
of 1899 that gold was found on the beach. A
soldier from the barracks—you know this is
part of a United States Military Reservation—found
gold while digging a well near the beach,
and an old miner took out $1,200 worth in
twenty days. Then a perfect frenzy seized the<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_112" id="Page_112">[112]</SPAN></span>
people. They flocked to Nome from far and
near; they camped on the beach in hundreds
and staked their claims. Between one and two
thousand men were at work on the beach at one
time, yet so good-natured were they that no
quarrels seem to have occurred. Doctors, lawyers,
barkeepers, and all dropped their business
and went to rocking, as they call beach-mining."</p>
<div class="figright"> <ANTIMG src="images/i139.jpg" width-obs="356" height-obs="500" alt="one man poking fire another standing by" /> <span class="caption">"'LET'S WATCH THOSE TWO MEN. THEY HAVE EVIDENTLY STAKED A CLAIM TOGETHER.'"</span></div>
<p>"Oh, dad, let's hurry and go and see it,"
cried Ted, as they hurried through their dinner
at the hotel. "I thought gold came out of deep
mines like copper, and had to be melted out or
something, but this seems to be different. Do
they just walk along the beach and pick it up?
I wish I could."</p>
<p>"Well, it's not quite so simple as that," said
Mr. Strong, laughing. "We'll go and see, and
then you'll understand," and they went down
the crooked streets to the sandy beach.</p>
<p>Men were standing about talking and laughing,
others working hard. All manner of men
were there scattered over the <i>tundra</i>,<SPAN name="FNanchor_14_14" id="FNanchor_14_14"></SPAN><SPAN href="#Footnote_14_14" class="fnanchor">[14]</SPAN> and Ted
<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_113" id="Page_113">[113]</SPAN></span>became interested in two who were working
together in silence.</p>
<p>"What are they doing?" he asked his father.
"I can't see how they expect to get anything
worth having out of this mess."</p>
<p>"Beach-mining is quite different from any
other," said his father. "Let's watch those
two men. They have evidently staked a claim
together, which means that nobody but these
two can work on the ground they have staked
out, and that they must share all the gold they
find. They came here to prospect, and evidently
found a block of ground which suited
them. They then dug a prospect hole down
two to five feet until they struck 'bedrock,'
which happens to be clay around here. They
passed through several layers of sand and
gravel before reaching this, and these were carefully
examined to see how much gold they contained.<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_114" id="Page_114">[114]</SPAN></span>
Upon reaching a layer which seemed
to be a good one, the gravel on top was stripped
off and thrown aside and the 'pay streak'
worked with the rocker."</p>
<p>"What is that?" asked Ted, who was all
ears, while Kalitan was taking in everything
with his sharp black eyes.</p>
<p>"That arrangement that looks like a square
pan on a saw-buck is the rocker. The rockers
usually have copper bottoms, and there is a
great demand for sheet copper at Nome, but
often there is not enough of it, and the miners
have been known to cover them with silver
coins. That man you are watching has silver
dollars in his, about fifty, I should say. It seems
extravagant, doesn't it, but he'll take out many
times that amount if he has good luck."</p>
<p>The man, who had glanced up at them,
smiled at that and said:</p>
<p>"And, if I don't have luck, I'm broke, anyhow,
so fifty or sixty plunks won't make much<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_115" id="Page_115">[115]</SPAN></span>
difference. You going to be a miner, youngster?"</p>
<p>"Not this trip," said Ted, with a smile.
"Say, I'd like to know how you get the gold
out with that."</p>
<p>"At first we used to put a blanket in the
rocker, and wash the pay dirt on that. Our
prospect hole has water in it, and we can use
it over and over. Some of the holes are dry,
and there the men have to pack their pay dirt
down to the shore and use surf water for washing.
Most of our gold is so fine that the
blanket didn't stop it, so now we use 'quick.'
I reckon you'd call it mercury, but we call it
quick. You see, it saves time, and work-time
up here is so short, on account of winter setting
in so early, that we have to save up our spare
minutes and not waste 'em on long words."</p>
<p>Ted grinned cheerfully and asked: "What
do you do with the quick?"</p>
<p>"We paint it over the bottom of the rocker,<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_116" id="Page_116">[116]</SPAN></span>
and it acts like a charm and catches every speck
of gold that comes its way as the dirt is washed
over it. The quick and the gold make a sort
of amalgam."</p>
<p>"But how do you get at the gold after it
amalgams, or whatever you call it?" asked
Ted.</p>
<p>"Sure we fry it in the frying-pan, and it's
elegant pancakes it makes," said the man. "See
here," and he pulled from his pocket several
flat masses that looked like pieces of yellow
sponge. "This is pure gold. All the quick
has gone off, and this is the real stuff, just as
good as money. An ounce will buy sixteen dollars'
worth of anything in Nome."</p>
<p>"It looks mighty pretty," said Ted. "Seems
to me it's redder than any gold I ever saw."</p>
<p>"It is," said his father. "Nome beach gold
is redder and brighter than any other Alaskan
gold. I guess I'll have to get you each a piece
for a souvenir," and both boys were made happy<span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_117" id="Page_117">[117]</SPAN></span>
by the present of a quaintly shaped nugget,
bought by Mr. Strong from the very miner who
had mined it, which of course added to its value.</p>
<p>"You're gathering quite a lot of souvenirs,
Ted," said his father. "It's a great relief that
you have not asked me for anything alive yet.
I have been expecting a modest request for a
Malamute or a Husky pup, or perhaps a pet
reindeer to take home, but so far you have been
quite moderate in your demands."</p>
<p>"Kalitan never asks for anything," said Ted.
"I asked him once why it was, and he said Indian
boys never got what they asked for; that
sometimes they had things given to them that
they hadn't asked for, but, if he asked the Tyee
for anything, all he got was 'Good Indian get
things for himself,' and he had to go to work
to get the thing he wanted. I guess it's a pretty
good plan, too, for I notice that I get just as
much as I did when I used to tease you for
things," Teddy added, sagely.</p>
<p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_118" id="Page_118">[118]</SPAN></span></p>
<p>"Wise boy," said his father. "You're certainly
more agreeable to live with. The next
thing you are to have is a visit to an Esquimo
village, and, if I can find some of the Esquimo
carvings, you shall have something to take home
to mother. Kalitan, what would you like to
remember the Esquimos by?"</p>
<p>Kalitan smiled and replied, simply, "<i>Mukluks</i>."</p>
<p>"What are <i>mukluks</i>?" demanded Ted.</p>
<p>"Esquimo moccasins," said Mr. Strong.
"Well, you shall both have a pair, and they
are rather pretty things, too, as the Esquimos
make them."</p>
<div class="footnotes"><h3>FOOTNOTE:</h3>
<div class="footnote"><p><SPAN name="Footnote_14_14" id="Footnote_14_14"></SPAN><SPAN href="#FNanchor_14_14"><span class="label">[14]</span></SPAN> The name given to the boggy soil of the beach.</p>
</div>
</div>
<hr class="chap" /><p><span class="pagenum"><SPAN name="Page_119" id="Page_119">[119]</SPAN></span></p>
<div style="break-after:column;"></div><br />