<h2><SPAN name="chap06"></SPAN>CHAPTER VI.<br/> LONDON.</h2>
<p>The next day was the first of March, and when I awoke, rose, and opened my
curtain, I saw the risen sun struggling through fog. Above my head, above the
house-tops, co-elevate almost with the clouds, I saw a solemn, orbed mass, dark
blue and dim—THE DOME. While I looked, my inner self moved; my spirit
shook its always-fettered wings half loose; I had a sudden feeling as if I, who
never yet truly lived, were at last about to taste life. In that morning my
soul grew as fast as Jonah’s gourd.</p>
<p>“I did well to come,” I said, proceeding to dress with speed and
care. “I like the spirit of this great London which I feel around me. Who
but a coward would pass his whole life in hamlets; and for ever abandon his
faculties to the eating rust of obscurity?”</p>
<p>Being dressed, I went down; not travel-worn and exhausted, but tidy and
refreshed. When the waiter came in with my breakfast, I managed to accost him
sedately, yet cheerfully; we had ten minutes’ discourse, in the course of
which we became usefully known to each other.</p>
<p>He was a grey-haired, elderly man; and, it seemed, had lived in his present
place twenty years. Having ascertained this, I was sure he must remember my two
uncles, Charles and Wilmot, who, fifteen, years ago, were frequent visitors
here. I mentioned their names; he recalled them perfectly, and with respect.
Having intimated my connection, my position in his eyes was henceforth clear,
and on a right footing. He said I was like my uncle Charles: I suppose he spoke
truth, because Mrs. Barrett was accustomed to say the same thing. A ready and
obliging courtesy now replaced his former uncomfortably doubtful manner;
henceforth I need no longer be at a loss for a civil answer to a sensible
question.</p>
<p>The street on which my little sitting-room window looked was narrow, perfectly
quiet, and not dirty: the few passengers were just such as one sees in
provincial towns: here was nothing formidable; I felt sure I might venture out
alone.</p>
<p>Having breakfasted, out I went. Elation and pleasure were in my heart: to walk
alone in London seemed of itself an adventure. Presently I found myself in
Paternoster Row—classic ground this. I entered a bookseller’s shop,
kept by one Jones: I bought a little book—a piece of extravagance I could
ill afford; but I thought I would one day give or send it to Mrs. Barrett. Mr.
Jones, a dried-in man of business, stood behind his desk: he seemed one of the
greatest, and I one of the happiest of beings.</p>
<p>Prodigious was the amount of life I lived that morning. Finding myself before
St. Paul’s, I went in; I mounted to the dome: I saw thence London, with
its river, and its bridges, and its churches; I saw antique Westminster, and
the green Temple Gardens, with sun upon them, and a glad, blue sky, of early
spring above; and between them and it, not too dense, a cloud of haze.</p>
<p>Descending, I went wandering whither chance might lead, in a still ecstasy of
freedom and enjoyment; and I got—I know not how—I got into the
heart of city life. I saw and felt London at last: I got into the Strand; I
went up Cornhill; I mixed with the life passing along; I dared the perils of
crossings. To do this, and to do it utterly alone, gave me, perhaps an
irrational, but a real pleasure. Since those days, I have seen the West End,
the parks, the fine squares; but I love the city far better. The city seems so
much more in earnest: its business, its rush, its roar, are such serious
things, sights, and sounds. The city is getting its living—the West End
but enjoying its pleasure. At the West End you may be amused, but in the city
you are deeply excited.</p>
<p>Faint, at last, and hungry (it was years since I had felt such healthy hunger),
I returned, about two o’clock, to my dark, old, and quiet inn. I dined on
two dishes—a plain joint and vegetables; both seemed excellent: how much
better than the small, dainty messes Miss Marchmont’s cook used to send
up to my kind, dead mistress and me, and to the discussion of which we could
not bring half an appetite between us! Delightfully tired, I lay down, on three
chairs for an hour (the room did not boast a sofa). I slept, then I woke and
thought for two hours.</p>
<p>My state of mind, and all accompanying circumstances, were just now such as
most to favour the adoption of a new, resolute, and daring—perhaps
desperate—line of action. I had nothing to lose. Unutterable loathing of
a desolate existence past, forbade return. If I failed in what I now designed
to undertake, who, save myself, would suffer? If I died far away
from—home, I was going to say, but I had no home—from England,
then, who would weep?</p>
<p>I might suffer; I was inured to suffering: death itself had not, I thought,
those terrors for me which it has for the softly reared. I had, ere this,
looked on the thought of death with a quiet eye. Prepared, then, for any
consequences, I formed a project.</p>
<p>That same evening I obtained from my friend, the waiter, information
respecting, the sailing of vessels for a certain continental port, Boue-Marine.
No time, I found, was to be lost: that very night I must take my berth. I
might, indeed, have waited till the morning before going on board, but would
not run the risk of being too late.</p>
<p>“Better take your berth at once, ma’am,” counselled the
waiter. I agreed with him, and having discharged my bill, and acknowledged my
friend’s services at a rate which I now know was princely, and which in
his eyes must have seemed absurd—and indeed, while pocketing the cash, he
smiled a faint smile which intimated his opinion of the donor’s
<i>savoir-faire</i>—he proceeded to call a coach. To the driver he also
recommended me, giving at the same time an injunction about taking me, I think,
to the wharf, and not leaving me to the watermen; which that functionary
promised to observe, but failed in keeping his promise: on the contrary, he
offered me up as an oblation, served me as a dripping roast, making me alight
in the midst of a throng of watermen.</p>
<p>This was an uncomfortable crisis. It was a dark night. The coachman instantly
drove off as soon as he had got his fare: the watermen commenced a struggle for
me and my trunk. Their oaths I hear at this moment: they shook my philosophy
more than did the night, or the isolation, or the strangeness of the scene. One
laid hands on my trunk. I looked on and waited quietly; but when another laid
hands on me, I spoke up, shook off his touch, stepped at once into a boat,
desired austerely that the trunk should be placed beside me—“Just
there,”—which was instantly done; for the owner of the boat I had
chosen became now an ally: I was rowed off.</p>
<p>Black was the river as a torrent of ink; lights glanced on it from the piles of
building round, ships rocked on its bosom. They rowed me up to several vessels;
I read by lantern-light their names painted in great white letters on a dark
ground. “The Ocean,” “The Phoenix,” “The
Consort,” “The Dolphin,” were passed in turns; but “The
Vivid” was my ship, and it seemed she lay further down.</p>
<p>Down the sable flood we glided, I thought of the Styx, and of Charon rowing
some solitary soul to the Land of Shades. Amidst the strange scene, with a
chilly wind blowing in my face and midnight clouds dropping rain above my head;
with two rude rowers for companions, whose insane oaths still tortured my ear,
I asked myself if I was wretched or terrified. I was neither. Often in my life
have I been far more so under comparatively safe circumstances. “How is
this?” said I. “Methinks I am animated and alert, instead of being
depressed and apprehensive?” I could not tell how it was.</p>
<p>“THE VIVID” started out, white and glaring, from the black night at
last.—“Here you are!” said the waterman, and instantly
demanded six shillings.</p>
<p>“You ask too much,” I said. He drew off from the vessel and swore
he would not embark me till I paid it. A young man, the steward as I found
afterwards, was looking over the ship’s side; he grinned a smile in
anticipation of the coming contest; to disappoint him, I paid the money. Three
times that afternoon I had given crowns where I should have given shillings;
but I consoled myself with the reflection, “It is the price of
experience.”</p>
<p>“They’ve cheated you!” said the steward exultingly when I got
on board. I answered phlegmatically that “I knew it,” and went
below.</p>
<p>A stout, handsome, and showy woman was in the ladies’ cabin. I asked to
be shown my berth; she looked hard at me, muttered something about its being
unusual for passengers to come on board at that hour, and seemed disposed to be
less than civil. What a face she had—so comely—so insolent and so
selfish!</p>
<p>“Now that I am on board, I shall certainly stay here,” was my
answer. “I will trouble you to show me my berth.”</p>
<p>She complied, but sullenly. I took off my bonnet, arranged my things, and lay
down. Some difficulties had been passed through; a sort of victory was won: my
homeless, anchorless, unsupported mind had again leisure for a brief repose.
Till the “Vivid” arrived in harbour, no further action would be
required of me; but then…. Oh! I could not look forward. Harassed, exhausted, I
lay in a half-trance.</p>
<p>The stewardess talked all night; not to me but to the young steward, her son
and her very picture. He passed in and out of the cabin continually: they
disputed, they quarrelled, they made it up again twenty times in the course of
the night. She professed to be writing a letter home—she said to her
father; she read passages of it aloud, heeding me no more than a
stock—perhaps she believed me asleep. Several of these passages appeared
to comprise family secrets, and bore special reference to one
“Charlotte,” a younger sister who, from the bearing of the epistle,
seemed to be on the brink of perpetrating a romantic and imprudent match; loud
was the protest of this elder lady against the distasteful union. The dutiful
son laughed his mother’s correspondence to scorn. She defended it, and
raved at him. They were a strange pair. She might be thirty-nine or forty, and
was buxom and blooming as a girl of twenty. Hard, loud, vain and vulgar, her
mind and body alike seemed brazen and imperishable. I should think, from her
childhood, she must have lived in public stations; and in her youth might very
likely have been a barmaid.</p>
<p>Towards morning her discourse ran on a new theme: “the Watsons,” a
certain expected family-party of passengers, known to her, it appeared, and by
her much esteemed on account of the handsome profit realized in their fees. She
said, “It was as good as a little fortune to her whenever this family
crossed.”</p>
<p>At dawn all were astir, and by sunrise the passengers came on board. Boisterous
was the welcome given by the stewardess to the “Watsons,” and great
was the bustle made in their honour. They were four in number, two males and
two females. Besides them, there was but one other passenger—a young
lady, whom a gentlemanly, though languid-looking man escorted. The two groups
offered a marked contrast. The Watsons were doubtless rich people, for they had
the confidence of conscious wealth in their bearing; the women—youthful
both of them, and one perfectly handsome, as far as physical beauty
went—were dressed richly, gaily, and absurdly out of character for the
circumstances. Their bonnets with bright flowers, their velvet cloaks and silk
dresses, seemed better suited for park or promenade than for a damp packet
deck. The men were of low stature, plain, fat, and vulgar; the oldest,
plainest, greasiest, broadest, I soon found was the husband—the
bridegroom I suppose, for she was very young—of the beautiful girl. Deep
was my amazement at this discovery; and deeper still when I perceived that,
instead of being desperately wretched in such a union, she was gay even to
giddiness. “Her laughter,” I reflected, “must be the mere
frenzy of despair.” And even while this thought was crossing my mind, as
I stood leaning quiet and solitary against the ship’s side, she came
tripping up to me, an utter stranger, with a camp-stool in her hand, and
smiling a smile of which the levity puzzled and startled me, though it showed a
perfect set of perfect teeth, she offered me the accommodation of this piece of
furniture. I declined it of course, with all the courtesy I could put into my
manner; she danced off heedless and lightsome. She must have been good-natured;
but what had made her marry that individual, who was at least as much like an
oil-barrel as a man?</p>
<p>The other lady passenger, with the gentleman-companion, was quite a girl,
pretty and fair: her simple print dress, untrimmed straw-bonnet and large
shawl, gracefully worn, formed a costume plain to quakerism: yet, for her,
becoming enough. Before the gentleman quitted her, I observed him throwing a
glance of scrutiny over all the passengers, as if to ascertain in what company
his charge would be left. With a most dissatisfied air did his eye turn from
the ladies with the gay flowers; he looked at me, and then he spoke to his
daughter, niece, or whatever she was: she also glanced in my direction, and
slightly curled her short, pretty lip. It might be myself, or it might be my
homely mourning habit, that elicited this mark of contempt; more likely, both.
A bell rang; her father (I afterwards knew that it was her father) kissed her,
and returned to land. The packet sailed.</p>
<p>Foreigners say that it is only English girls who can thus be trusted to travel
alone, and deep is their wonder at the daring confidence of English parents and
guardians. As for the “jeunes Meess,” by some their intrepidity is
pronounced masculine and “inconvenant,” others regard them as the
passive victims of an educational and theological system which wantonly
dispenses with proper “surveillance.” Whether this particular young
lady was of the sort that can the most safely be left unwatched, I do not know:
or, rather did not <i>then</i> know; but it soon appeared that the dignity of
solitude was not to her taste. She paced the deck once or twice backwards and
forwards; she looked with a little sour air of disdain at the flaunting silks
and velvets, and the bears which thereon danced attendance, and eventually she
approached me and spoke.</p>
<p>“Are you fond of a sea-voyage?” was her question.</p>
<p>I explained that my <i>fondness</i> for a sea-voyage had yet to undergo the
test of experience; I had never made one.</p>
<p>“Oh, how charming!” cried she. “I quite envy you the novelty:
first impressions, you know, are so pleasant. Now I have made so many, I quite
forget the first: I am quite <i>blasée</i> about the sea and all that.”</p>
<p>I could not help smiling.</p>
<p>“Why do you laugh at me?” she inquired, with a frank testiness that
pleased me better than her other talk.</p>
<p>“Because you are so young to be <i>blasée</i> about anything.”</p>
<p>“I am seventeen” (a little piqued).</p>
<p>“You hardly look sixteen. Do you like travelling alone?”</p>
<p>“Bah! I care nothing about it. I have crossed the Channel ten times,
alone; but then I take care never to be long alone: I always make
friends.”</p>
<p>“You will scarcely make many friends this voyage, I think”
(glancing at the Watson-group, who were now laughing and making a great deal of
noise on deck).</p>
<p>“Not of those odious men and women,” said she: “such people
should be steerage passengers. Are you going to school?”</p>
<p>“No.”</p>
<p>“Where are you going?”</p>
<p>“I have not the least idea—beyond, at least, the port of
Boue-Marine.”</p>
<p>She stared, then carelessly ran on:</p>
<p>“I am going to school. Oh, the number of foreign schools I have been at
in my life! And yet I am quite an ignoramus. I know nothing—nothing in
the world—I assure you; except that I play and dance
beautifully,—and French and German of course I know, to speak; but I
can’t read or write them very well. Do you know they wanted me to
translate a page of an easy German book into English the other day, and I
couldn’t do it. Papa was so mortified: he says it looks as if M. de
Bassompierre—my godpapa, who pays all my school-bills—had thrown
away all his money. And then, in matters of information—in history,
geography, arithmetic, and so on, I am quite a baby; and I write English so
badly—such spelling and grammar, they tell me. Into the bargain I have
quite forgotten my religion; they call me a Protestant, you know, but really I
am not sure whether I am one or not: I don’t well know the difference
between Romanism and Protestantism. However, I don’t in the least care
for that. I was a Lutheran once at Bonn—dear Bonn!—charming
Bonn!—where there were so many handsome students. Every nice girl in our
school had an admirer; they knew our hours for walking out, and almost always
passed us on the promenade: ‘Schönes Mädchen,’ we used to hear them
say. I was excessively happy at Bonn!”</p>
<p>“And where are you now?” I inquired.</p>
<p>“Oh! at—<i>chose</i>,” said she.</p>
<p>Now, Miss Ginevra Fanshawe (such was this young person’s name) only
substituted this word “<i>chose</i>” in temporary oblivion of the
real name. It was a habit she had: “<i>chose</i>” came in at every
turn in her conversation—the convenient substitute for any missing word
in any language she might chance at the time to be speaking. French girls often
do the like; from them she had caught the custom. “<i>Chose</i>,”
however, I found in this instance, stood for Villette—the great capital
of the great kingdom of Labassecour.</p>
<p>“Do you like Villette?” I asked.</p>
<p>“Pretty well. The natives, you know, are intensely stupid and vulgar; but
there are some nice English families.”</p>
<p>“Are you in a school?”</p>
<p>“Yes.”</p>
<p>“A good one?”</p>
<p>“Oh, no! horrid: but I go out every Sunday, and care nothing about the
<i>maîtresses</i> or the <i>professeurs</i>, or the <i>élèves</i>, and send
lessons <i>au diable</i> (one daren’t say that in English, you know, but
it sounds quite right in French); and thus I get on charmingly…. You are
laughing at me again?”</p>
<p>“No—I am only smiling at my own thoughts.”</p>
<p>“What are they?” (Without waiting for an answer)—“Now,
<i>do</i> tell me where you are going.”</p>
<p>“Where Fate may lead me. My business is to earn a living where I can find
it.”</p>
<p>“To earn!” (in consternation) “are you poor, then?”</p>
<p>“As poor as Job.”</p>
<p>(After a pause)—“Bah! how unpleasant! But <i>I</i> know what it is
to be poor: they are poor enough at home—papa and mamma, and all of them.
Papa is called Captain Fanshawe; he is an officer on half-pay, but
well-descended, and some of our connections are great enough; but my uncle and
godpapa De Bassompierre, who lives in France, is the only one that helps us: he
educates us girls. I have five sisters and three brothers. By-and-by we are to
marry—rather elderly gentlemen, I suppose, with cash: papa and mamma
manage that. My sister Augusta is married now to a man much older-looking than
papa. Augusta is very beautiful—not in my style—but dark; her
husband, Mr. Davies, had the yellow fever in India, and he is still the colour
of a guinea; but then he is rich, and Augusta has her carriage and
establishment, and we all think she has done perfectly well. Now, this is
better than ‘earning a living,’ as you say. By the way, are you
clever?”</p>
<p>“No—not at all.”</p>
<p>“You can play, sing, speak three or four languages?”</p>
<p>“By no means.”</p>
<p>“Still I think you are clever” (a pause and a yawn).</p>
<p>“Shall you be sea-sick?”</p>
<p>“Shall you?”</p>
<p>“Oh, immensely! as soon as ever we get in sight of the sea: I begin,
indeed, to feel it already. I shall go below; and won’t I order about
that fat odious stewardess! Heureusement je sais faire aller mon monde.”</p>
<p>Down she went.</p>
<p>It was not long before the other passengers followed her: throughout the
afternoon I remained on deck alone. When I recall the tranquil, and even happy
mood in which I passed those hours, and remember, at the same time, the
position in which I was placed; its hazardous—some would have said its
hopeless—character; I feel that, as—</p>
<p class="poem">
Stone walls do not a prison make,<br/>
Nor iron bars—a cage,</p>
<p class="noindent">
so peril, loneliness, an uncertain future, are not oppressive evils, so long as
the frame is healthy and the faculties are employed; so long, especially, as
Liberty lends us her wings, and Hope guides us by her star.</p>
<p>I was not sick till long after we passed Margate, and deep was the pleasure I
drank in with the sea-breeze; divine the delight I drew from the heaving
Channel waves, from the sea-birds on their ridges, from the white sails on
their dark distance, from the quiet yet beclouded sky, overhanging all. In my
reverie, methought I saw the continent of Europe, like a wide dream-land, far
away. Sunshine lay on it, making the long coast one line of gold; tiniest
tracery of clustered town and snow-gleaming tower, of woods deep massed, of
heights serrated, of smooth pasturage and veiny stream, embossed the
metal-bright prospect. For background, spread a sky, solemn and dark blue,
and—grand with imperial promise, soft with tints of
enchantment—strode from north to south a God-bent bow, an arch of hope.</p>
<p>Cancel the whole of that, if you please, reader—or rather let it stand,
and draw thence a moral—an alliterative, text-hand copy—</p>
<p class="poem">
Day-dreams are delusions of the demon.</p>
<p class="noindent">
Becoming excessively sick, I faltered down into the cabin.</p>
<p>Miss Fanshawe’s berth chanced to be next mine; and, I am sorry to say,
she tormented me with an unsparing selfishness during the whole time of our
mutual distress. Nothing could exceed her impatience and fretfulness. The
Watsons, who were very sick too, and on whom the stewardess attended with
shameless partiality, were stoics compared with her. Many a time since have I
noticed, in persons of Ginevra Fanshawe’s light, careless temperament,
and fair, fragile style of beauty, an entire incapacity to endure: they seem to
sour in adversity, like small beer in thunder. The man who takes such a woman
for his wife, ought to be prepared to guarantee her an existence all sunshine.
Indignant at last with her teasing peevishness, I curtly requested her
“to hold her tongue.” The rebuff did her good, and it was
observable that she liked me no worse for it.</p>
<p>As dark night drew on, the sea roughened: larger waves swayed strong against
the vessel’s side. It was strange to reflect that blackness and water
were round us, and to feel the ship ploughing straight on her pathless way,
despite noise, billow, and rising gale. Articles of furniture began to fall
about, and it became needful to lash them to their places; the passengers grew
sicker than ever; Miss Fanshawe declared, with groans, that she must die.</p>
<p>“Not just yet, honey,” said the stewardess. “We’re just
in port.” Accordingly, in another quarter of an hour, a calm fell upon us
all; and about midnight the voyage ended.</p>
<p>I was sorry: yes, I was sorry. My resting-time was past; my
difficulties—my stringent difficulties—recommenced. When I went on
deck, the cold air and black scowl of the night seemed to rebuke me for my
presumption in being where I was: the lights of the foreign sea-port town,
glimmering round the foreign harbour, met me like unnumbered threatening eyes.
Friends came on board to welcome the Watsons; a whole family of friends
surrounded and bore away Miss Fanshawe; I—but I dared not for one moment
dwell on a comparison of positions.</p>
<p>Yet where should I go? I must go somewhere. Necessity dare not be nice. As I
gave the stewardess her fee—and she seemed surprised at receiving a coin
of more value than, from such a quarter, her coarse calculations had probably
reckoned on—I said, “Be kind enough to direct me to some quiet,
respectable inn, where I can go for the night.”</p>
<p>She not only gave me the required direction, but called a commissionaire, and
bid him take charge of me, and—<i>not</i> my trunk, for that was gone to
the custom-house.</p>
<p>I followed this man along a rudely-paved street, lit now by a fitful gleam of
moonlight; he brought me to the inn. I offered him sixpence, which he refused
to take; supposing it not enough, I changed it for a shilling; but this also he
declined, speaking rather sharply, in a language to me unknown. A waiter,
coming forward into the lamp-lit inn-passage, reminded me, in broken English,
that my money was foreign money, not current here. I gave him a sovereign to
change. This little matter settled, I asked for a bedroom; supper I could not
take: I was still sea-sick and unnerved, and trembling all over. How deeply
glad I was when the door of a very small chamber at length closed on me and my
exhaustion. Again I might rest: though the cloud of doubt would be as thick
to-morrow as ever; the necessity for exertion more urgent, the peril (of
destitution) nearer, the conflict (for existence) more severe.</p>
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